How To: Cauldron Creep

“Bob” the Cauldron Creep

The Cauldron Creep is a prop that can fit perfectly into any Haunt.  He can sit on a porch, by a graveyard, in a dungeon, or just about anywhere.  The basic structure is fairly simple, requiring about 20 feet of 1/2 inch PVC pipe and dozen small fittings.  It can be set up as a stationary prop, with no movement, or the design can be modified to include head and/or arm movement.  Our Creep, known as “Bob”, both nods (or “bobs”) his head and stirs a cauldron.

The Supplies

  • 20 feet of 1/2 inch PVC pipe
  • 1 black permanent marker
  • 7 1/2 inch T connections
  • 3 1/2 inch 45 degree connections
  • 6 1/2 inch 90 degree connections
  • 1 3/4 to 1/2 inch T connection
  • 2 small motors
  • 1 Bag of Bones (including at least one skull and one arm)
  • 1 cauldron or bucket
  • 1 small jar PVC glue

Cutting the Pipe

The measurements of the Creep are based on a human that is about 5 1/2 feet tall.  As you cut each piece, mark it with a permanent marker.  This will save you from a major headache when it’s time to assemble the body.

  • 2 Toes – 9 3/4 inches
  • 2 Heels – 12 inches
  • 2 Lower Legs – 14 5/8 inches
  • 2 Upper Legs – 17 5/8 inches
  • 1 Hip Center – 4 1/2 inches
  • 2 Hip Sides – 1 3/4 inches
  • 2 Spines – 18 5/8 inches
  • Shoulder Center – 4 1/2 inches
  • 2 Shoulder Sides – 3 7/8 inches
  • 1 Upper Arm – 11 5/8 inches
  • 1 Lower Arm – 9 5/8 inches
  • Neck A – 1 3/4 inches
  • Neck B – 9 3/4 inches


The foot bone’s connected to the ankle bone, the ankle bone’s connected to the…  Well, you get the picture.  If you carefully marked the pipes as you were cutting them, assembly should be pretty simple.  A picture is worth a thousand words, and our pictures have been marked to show the pieces as clearly as possible.  To view a larger image of any picture, just click on it.

Start with the Toes and the Heels.  Using the T connectors, attach them to make feet.  Then, add a Lower Leg to each of the Ts.  Next come the knees.  These are made with the 45 degree connections to give the Creep a bit of a “crouch” in his posture.  The Upper Legs attach to the knees and then the legs are topped off with 90 degree connections to lead into the hips.

To each of the 90 degree connectors, attach the Hip Sides.  To each of the Hip Sides, attach a pair of T connectors.  These will become the base of the Spine.  Now, you can join the two legs together using the Hip Center.  Then, connect the two Spines to the top of the T connectors.  At the top of the Spine, attach two more T connectors.  Then, grab the Shoulder Center, but don’t attach it yet.  First, grab the 3/4 to 1/2 inch T connector and slip it on top of the Shoulder Center.  Then, attach the Shoulder Center.  The special T connector should spin freely on the Shoulder Center.

Continue building the shoulders by adding the Shoulder Sides to the T connectors.  On each of those ad a 90 degree connector to make the shoulders.  From this point, only one arm is needed.  The other arm will be created later as part of the Cauldron Movement.  Attach an Upper Arm to the shoulder, use a 90 degree connector as an elbow, add a Lower Arm, and complete things with a 45 degree connector for a hand.

To build the neck, go back to the special T connector and attach a Neck A.  This part will hang below the shoulders.  On the rear of the connector, attach a Neck B, and on the front of the connector attach another Neck A.  Leading up to the head, use the final 90 degree connector and the final Neck B.

At this point, it may be necessary to use some glue, especially on the Hips, to keep your Creep from falling over.  Make sure you have him positioned in the perfect “crouch” before you attach anything, or you’ll find yourself having to re-cut some pipe.  We recommend using PVC glue.  Glue the pipe together just like you would if you were working on real plumbing, making sure to read the instructions on the can.

At this point, it is time to decide if you want to have a stationary or a moving prop.  If your plan is to NOT have your Creep stirring a cauldron, you’ll need to cut a some more PVC to make another arm.  Then, just stick a costume on the frame and you’re all set.  It’s a quick prop that will have your trick-or-treaters wondering if it is going to come to life.  But, if you’ve read this far, odds are that you want to go all of the way…

Head Movement

Part Two of the build, explaining how to make the head move, is located HERE.

Cauldron Movement

Part Three of the build, explaining how to make the stirring stick move, is located HERE.


Thanks must be given to both Kammo’s Lair and The Devil’s Workshop for their detailed instructions on how they built their Creeps.  And more thanks to All Electronics and Monster Guts for always having the parts we need!


5 thoughts on “How To: Cauldron Creep

  1. Brandy

    I love you Mr. Jingles!!!! You saved me a lot of measurements and headaches!!!!

    • BlackWidow

      You’re very welcome! I’d love to see a picture of what you created! Our “Bob” is now complete. I just need to finish up the “How To” page.

  2. Anonymous

    That looks awesome. I plan on doing a cauldron creep for this year. Thanks for the intructions and vids. Will make life easier…

  3. Anonymous

    what happened to the instructions on how to do the Cauldron Movement?

  4. Could I make it work without glueing the pieces together? I’d like to be able to pack it up and store it easily.

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